I have some friends and some family coming into town this month, and I intended to give them some survival tips. The transportation culture is very different here compared to the U.S., and until you get used to it you can easily be a danger to yourself and others!
Here are some big differences/ things to look out for if you decide to visit. Note that these are not backed up by any classes or government websites, they are only my observations so don't hold me to them!
Driving: Unless you need to drive, don't do it. Within 10 miles of the city there is very little need to drive yourself anywhere, and unless you are used to dodging tourists and bikes it is very risky. If you can't resist, here are some need-to-knows:
1) No right turns on red. I think this goes for all of Europe, but it certainly applies in Holland. The roads are generally designed with a bus/tram lane in between the standard car lanes, which are in-turn flanked by bicycle lanes. Further out still are pedestrian lanes. Each set of lanes is subject to its own set of traffic signals, so when car lanes are red the bike lanes or pedestrian signals may be green.
2) Stop signs are almost non-existent. Off the top of my head, I can't think of one within the city limits. Intersections are controlled based on who must yield. This can get complicated, but there are some simple things to know about:
- In general you must yield to the person to the right - this goes for bicycles and cars, but you should not assume that bicycles will follow the rule (see #3).
- Look for the shark teeth (white triangles) on the road in front of you where you would expect the white stripe at a stop sign. If they are pointing towards you, you must yield. This overrides the "yield to the right" rule.
- If the lane you are in is at a different elevation than the cross street (you have to go up or down several inches into the intersection), you must yield. This also overrides the "yield to the right" rule.
3) Bicycles are everywhere. Everywhere. You can't believe how many. Scooters too. And motorcycles. And pedestrians. And more bicycles. And cabs, trams (which are unexpectedly quiet), and buses. But it is the bicycles that are the biggest threat. The vast majority of the bikers are Dutch, which means they've been doing this their whole life. They will run the gamut from completely law-obeying to texting and not looking at anything to aggressive blowing through stop lights. But they are generally not the problem - they are actually good at what they are doing. But if you don't know what you are doing and you hit one, it is your fault. Fact is, if you do know what you are doing and one hits you - even while stopped - it could still be your fault. Don't lose focus.
4) Bus lanes are for buses, trams, and cabs only. And police, but they are not for regular cars. I've been pulled over twice in 2+ years, and once was for using a tram lane to turn (in addition to my bike covering my licence plate, which was the only reason I was stopped the other time). Apparently they take these things seriously.
5) The curb is part of the road. Embrace them - the roads just are not wide enough to navigate unless you are driving a small car (which you might be if you're renting). They are often mandatory as well due to trucks making deliveries. For my old Q7 (both long and wide), there are many places where it just is not possible to make turns without driving onto the curb or backing up once or twice. But it not only the big cars; I talked to a recent expat that drives a Mini Cooper - same thing: He had to drive on the curb the first day he got the car.
6) Speed limit signs are not everywhere. You are expected to know the limits where you are (based on the Dutch National speed limits) unless it is otherwise posted. However, the only real danger of getting a speeding ticket is on the highway where you see "Controle" signs - you get the ticket in the mail several days later. Very convenient!
7) Crosswalks. I've yet to figure out how to determine who has to yield at these. If I see a blue crossing sign I generally yield and if not I don't. But it usually seems to come down to who takes the initiative. If someone looks like they are going to cross, I let them. I occasionally get a honk from behind, but that's a Dutch thing.
8) Stoplight timing. It is pretty thin. I do not recommend entering the intersection after it turns pink unless you can get all the way through it and you are at speed. Otherwise you will learn lots of new Dutch words as your car is surrounded by pedestrians, bikes, and cars trying to go around you.
9) Scooters in bike/car lanes. If a scooter has blue plates, they can only drive in the bike lanes. If they have yellow plates, they can only drive on the road. Except that they don't follow those rules and tend to go where they want to, so don't be surprised if one pops out of nowhere. And like elsewhere in Europe, they are allowed to drive around you while stopped and get to the front of the queue at the lights.
I may have to come back to the driving list later (there is a lot I'm forgetting at present), but this is a decent start.
Biking: Unless you are very comfortable on a bike, or are willing to hire a guide, avoid the temptation. I highly recommend seeing the city from a bike - on a sunny day there is not much better to do than to ride through these old streets. But you need to be able to ride comfortably, and pay attention to the road just as if you were driving a car. All of the same rules apply as above, especially the one about bicycles being everywhere. Small "fender-benders" are not terribly uncommon and most hardly merit a glance at the other person involved. Serious accidents also happen, and generally involve a motorized vehicle but not always. The heavy bikes that are popular here can do some damage to a tourist trying to get that perfect shot of himself in front of the Anne Frank house.
If you ARE comfortable on a bike, rent one. There are dozens of shops around. Tourists are generally easy to spot on the bright red, yellow, or green bikes that some of the bigger companies use. If you want to blend in better, go to a smaller shop and get a beat-up looking black bike with white on the back fender.
There are bike lanes just about everywhere, and if you're not in the canal district most are separated from the driving lanes. This makes them much safer than most lanes found in the US, but you still need to watch out for other bikes, pedestrians (tourists), and intersections. The bike lanes are normally red and are distinct from the sidewalks, although tourists seem not to notice and walk on them constantly. Keep an eye out for them while on your way to the bike shop and you'll be able to figure it out.
Most everyone signals when they are going to turn, although it may be too fast to see. And it is more of a point than the old signals we learned in Driver's Ed. In other words, you signal a right turn by using your right hand to point to the right. If you make an L with your left arm, people will think that you're waving to them. There is no "Stop" signal that I have noticed.
Turning is sometimes awkward at intersections in that to turn left across a busy intersection you may need to veer right into the left turn lane. This allows other bikers to pass in front of you while the light is green and then you go with the flow from behind you - kind of like walking across two intersecting roads to get to the diagonal corner.
Watch out for tram tracks. Cross them at a 90-degree angle. If your tire falls down into the rut, you're going down.
When biking in the downtown area - particularly on the main canal streets (Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and Prinsengracht), there are no bike lanes and the sidewalks are narrow. This pushes everyone into the one-way (for cars only) driving lanes, which are by no means boulevards. There is enough room for cars to pass you, but you have to be steady and work with them. Biking in this area is not for the faint of heart. The inner (Singel) and outer (Marnixstraat/ Weteringschaans) rings are designed for biking, with limited car access.
Walking:
Unbelievably, one friend at ISA has witnessed two tourists being mauled in separate incidents. One involved a lady (squatting to take a picture) and a dump truck. The other involved a tram with a possible leg amputation (I don't remember the details so I may have that wrong).
The lesson here is that this is a real, working city. It is not an amusement park, and it is not a US Nanny State city. People are going to and from work and school, trucks are making deliveries, a ton of roads are torn up, and believe it or not some people are not 100% sober even at 09:00.
But it is pretty simple to stay safe:
1) When there is a sidewalk, use it. In most places, there IS a sidewalk. In many places, it is so narrow that people are forced to step out into the street to pass each other, etc. What usually follows this is people just walking in the street, which is fine for a short distance but people tend to just keep going. Bikes, scooters, and cabs fly down the canal streets where selfie-stick usage is highest. At best they are hindering the flow of traffic. At worst they can get badly hurt.
2) The red paths are bike lanes. This is not a 100% certainty, but it is likely. If you walk in them, you will think Santa and his sleigh are bearing down on you from the cacophony of bells.
3) Before stepping off the sidewalk LOOK FOR BIKES! They come from everywhere and they don't make a lot of noise. I've been hit once or twice (with no ill effects), and I've seen lots of others hit or knocked down, including one or two people getting knocked off their bikes as a result. Not to mention the guy that ran over my daughter as she stepped out our front door.
Keep your eyes open and don't let your guard down.
That's all for now, but I'm sure I'll think of more things to add. Feel free to add in the comments section as well.
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